I’m only starting day two of our instruction, but yesterday’s session revealed some interesting points I’d like to share.
(My “student” has 15 years experience and is versed in all the latest machines/modalities. We are using several different machines. She has also agreed to become a “Hairtell regular” … so, I’m not going to “steal any of her thunder” … I will let her introduce herself to our community.” She will be a great asset!)
The issue is the “tapered needle!” First, the real “good ones” are not being made any more. And secondly, people are not using them correctly! No wonder I get blank stares when I talk about the tapered needle!
I watched this person using the regular Ballet, the Laurier IB … and then the (Ballet and Hinkel) tapered. Basically, the taper itself was left “high and dry” above and OUTSIDE the follicle. Since she learned this usage at a “proper school” I assume that’s how everyone is using these needles.
So, we did a real time experiment … on her husband’s beard. We got the HF to a point of “almost” too much … you could see the surface “do it’s ‘overtreatment’ thing’.” Without changing settings, timing or needle diameter, I gave her the RIGHT-SIZE (length) tapered needle and had her use it properly. She was stunned. She actually said: “Oh my God!” It was like flipping a switch: NO skin trauma, and PERFECT hair release!
Yeah, that’s what tapered needle do! If used properly.
At first, when she watched me using the tapered needle, she was “horrified” because it literally looks like I’m inserting the SHANK into the follicle. But that’s what you do!!! The taper itself (not just the blade) is supposed to be inserted down fully into the follicle’s infundibulum (or deeper). Yes, down into the follicle. It looks dreadful! (You must select the absolute right size needle to match the follicle’s depth.)
What good is the “taper” if it’s sitting high above the follicle? It’s like carrying an umbrella upside down in the rain! It would be like using an insulated needle and not inserting the insulation! I think the reason folks don’t “enjoy” the tapered needle is because they are not using them correctly!
I’d better end this post now, because it’s already looking like a BOOK (again). (I won’t include the rationale for the tapered needle here … too long an explanation.)
The other big problem is the available tapered needle sizes: they’re mostly WRONG! The best tapered were made by Larry Douglas (he stopped). The “Hinkel tapered” were acceptable, but he stopped making them too! The Douglas needles were perfect, although the guy was as “stubborn as a mule” and difficult to work with. Maybe this characteristic is endemic to needle makers? (No CD)