Need peer opinions, please.

Professionals Only! Electrologist to Electrologist (pros only)
#1

I don’t post here often but I am the only electrologist in my area and don’t have a peer group to run these experiences by for helpful input. First, I am a newbie electrologist; recent EINE grad and have been working in my own practice for almost a year now. I’ve had a lot of success so far and my clients have been very happy. Recently, however, I have two new clients that I am experiencing difficulty with.

Both are middle-aged (50s) African-American women with coarse black and white chin hairs, both with a tendency toward hyper-pigmentation and keloids. I chose the blend method on both clients (which I’ve had a lot of success with in the past) but it seems that no matter how I adjust the settings, I have a very difficult time getting the hair to release. The hair follicles are both naturally distorted and more so from years of plucking. The highest I have put the settings with the most difficult of these two clients was 102 units of lye (which seems very high to me) and I still had to treat some of the gray hairs 2 times before getting it to release (and still some tugging).

Is this normal or am I doubting my talent and abilities for good cause? Any suggestions?

Thanks in advance!

ETA that I use an Apilus Senior II.

#2

What needle type and size are you using?
Try to use the thickest needle possible.
More sodium hydroxide is produced when the thicker probes can be used.

What timing are you using?

Keep in mind that the micropictographs that we have been able to see over the years show us that although hair can be curly as it lays on the surface of the skin, in the follicle, the hairs are merely slightly cocked. You need not have to resort to blend but lets start trouble-shooting with what you are most comfortable with for now.

#3

I have been using a size 3 gold Ballet probe. I may be able to use a 4 and will try that next time. Timing is between 12 and 14 seconds at between 62 - 68 milliamperes.

Forgive my ignorance, but would microflash be an acceptable alternative for this type of hair and follicle, as far as reaching the hair nourishment and being able to effectively treat the hair follicle? It seems it would certainly be quicker and more comfortable for the client.

#4

MicroFlash would be possible under the correct circumstances. Your insertions would have to be just so, and the treatment energy would have to be high enough.

Hairs tempered by years of plucking will laugh at the treatment energies that decimate virgin upper lip hairs. You may even want to try MultiPlex.

#5

Chrissie,

For coarse hairs, a 3 or 4 probe is too small to use. Try a size 5 and think about tilting the probe a little to the right or left as you insert, to hone in on the bend of the hair. Don’t be afraid of using a larger probe. The follicle can stretch a bit. Blend is fine to use, but You can use MultiPlex with good outcome and comfort for the client. Be a good teacher and instruct the client that after she gets cleared, to come back in about six weeks or so, when the hairs are new, thus straighter and more fragile. The insertions are easier at this stage because they are less curvy.

#6

Agreeing with the recommendation of using a 5 over 3 or 4. My similar clients have hairs that are equivalent to sequoia trees…

#7

Would you prefer to go back to thermolysis?
If so, yes, MultiPlex or slower thermolysis is a great idea.
Moving up to a thicker probe still stands but
this time, consider an insulated probe.

#8

Does the Apilus Sr. have the multi-plex option?

#9

Only Senior ii with IMMPAC had the multiplex feature.
Slower thermolysis is still an option without multiplex.

#10

Great thread! This scenario is so common!

Extremely coarse, curly hair that covers the entire area under the chin, going to the sides, with some growth stretching to the neck and a bit on the cheeks. Follicles are curvy as heck, enhanced by years of ruthless plucking, with keloid skin in the background. Classic!

As the hairs don’t release, you start doubting yourself and then, your machine. Maybe, the needle cord went bad? Maybe, you forgot to switch the right one on? Should I excuse myself and try my backup machine? LOL!

Here is what I do, and it works. The thickest Laurier IBP probe you can get into the follicle, 2 or more shots of Multiplex to mildly expand the heat pattern to loosen the hair, try to readjust the probe between the pulses, as it can often be advanced a little deeper into the follicle. After that, the hair will either come out easily or with a minimal tug. The good news is that it DOES get better after a couple of times. Try to catch the regrowth early, as it’s the easiest to treat effectively.

Now, you can’t do Multiplex with a Senior, but do get 2-piece probes, as they are much more flexible and can get deeper into curved follicles. Insulated is a good idea, as you want to prevent collateral damage higher up in the skin. I don’t get paid to advertise Laurier, lol, but it’s a really good probe for this. If the follicles are so curved that you can’t insert the probe far enough, I’d be concerned of the lye coming up to the surface. With thermo, you can usually get deeper into the follicle with each pulse (try to wiggle the probe to follow the curvature of the follicle), and it will usually loosen the hair sufficiently. You can follow up with blend at a later time for the more stubborn hairs, if you choose.

#11

No, unfortunately, my machine doesn’t have Multiplex. Though I used it in school and have wished, on several occasions, that I did have it.

Yes, this is EXACTLY my train of thought, lol.

Thank you all so much for all of your expertise! I can’t begin to tell you how fantastic you all are. I am excited to see this client again and try some of these suggestions.

#12

Contact Dectro and ask how much it would cost to add IMMPAC to your senior II.

Careful about excessive pulsing in thermolysis.
The heat from pulsing dries the follicle and you might see too much activity at the surface of the skin.

Try first to change just one variable at a time. The first variable to change is your probe. Use the thicker probe. See what happens.

Then, if you like, switch to an insulated probe. See what happens. Are you experienced with insulated?

Will you be exploring more thermolysis or blend with these clients?
More suggestions would be contingent on that.

#13

I do use insulated probes when I use Microflash.

I think I will first change the size of my probe with the blend and see how that works. If I still have problems, I will switch to insulated and try some slow thermolysis.

#14

Hi Chrissie,

I just realized that you are an esthetician also.
Have you ever used Anaphoresis?
If you want to experiment, see if it is worth the time to do Anaphoresis on those elderly ladies with dry skin and then administer electrolysis.

#15

I hadn’t even thought of anaphoresis (DUH). I was thinking about doing some light exfoliation pre-treatment but anaphoresis is a great idea. Thank you!

#16

Let me know how it goes for you.
Also, what product are you considering when doing your anaphoresis?

#17

I use witch hazel with lavender and tea tree oils.

#18

Hi Dee and Arlene,and Chrissie. Hope you don’t mind me jumping in here. Can I ask what kind of setting with Multiplex would you use for this skin and hair type? Thanks

#19

Unfortunately, I am unsure. I don’t have Multiplex on my epilator and it has been a couple of years since I used it in a school setting on a client. Hopefully someone else will have a good answer for you. :slight_smile:

#20

Multi-plex on platinum: A. Select area. B. Select 3 or 4, making note of the top number on the left. C. Select pulse and change from 1 to 2. (D. if needed) You might find it necessary to change the top number on the left to the original number (higher than it is with 2 pulses).

Regarding B. Sometimes you need to find that perfect spot between 3 and 4.

This works for me.