Looking to do it at home

Thanks, Choice. I like the idea of one-piece non-disp, and I understand they still require sterilization. For at-home stuff, is it sufficient to clean them before & after use with aclohol? I would suspect that would suffice for 90% of the time.

But I have an added advantage as my wife is a nurse in a surgical clinic, so we will probably have access to an autoclave. That will make the sterilization situation much better, of course.

I see needle sizes ranging from 2-10, and understand that different sizes are for different diameter hairs, but is there a good pair of sizes to start out with until I get the hang of things? I read here that technique is actually more important than proper size; a larger needle CAN be inserted into a smaller follicle if one knows what he/she is doing… but I suspect that for the novice, having the right size (or smaller) needle would make insertion easier. OTOH, smaller probably punches thru the back of the follicle easier, too.

What about insulated? I don’t see any posts about the advantages/disadvantages of these, but again, it seems they would make life safer for my victim errrr, patient wife.

Just some thoughts…

Disposable probes are not made to last longer than 5-7 hours, depending on modality used. Insulated probes can disinegrate right before your eyes if you are doing blend or galvanic. Probes can bend. They are very thin pieces of metal. You don’t want to use a crooked probe I would invest in a box of 50 probes. They are about $1.00 a piece.

Smaller probes are “hotter” probes. Don’t use them because they may be easier to insert A bigger probe gets more surface area and they are sturdier. I like gold probes by ballet. I use a lot of insulated probes by ballet. You need to have super accurate insertions with insulated probes and you must get have the energy release deep into the follicle. Insulated probes cost more than gold and gold probes cost more than stainless steel. Stainless steel may be a good for a beginner if your wife is not allergic to nickel.

I should have mentioned that the hair I was working on with 3 diopters (mine) is dark and thick and look like trees even with such low magnification. If I was working on a genetic female’s cheek peach fuzz, I am sure it would never work :confused:

If you go to texaselectrolysissupply.com and do a search on “roller” in the product description box you can see all of the available ana/cata rollers. It is also in their PDF catalog which you can download on their site. Dectro’s roller is $31 though I use a roller like the small Clareblend roller with mine. I’ll let the pros comment on the pros and cons of different rollers, since I am only familiar with mine.

I don’t do anaphoresis or cataphoresis, so my roller remains unused.

The different rollers don’t really matter, in as much as they all have banana connections, and therefore would work on all machines.

The differences between rollers only relates to the ease of use as it relates to sanitation and sterilization practices. As such, I won’t bore the home user with these differences. They are of little consequence to the home user.

While we are talking about parts that are universal to most/all electrolysis machines. I would find it to be a lovely Christmas gift if someone sent me a spare inactive pole (the silver hand held chunk of metal) It seems that a wide eyed child thought it was a wonderful shiney thing that just had to walk out the door and join the treasures of the world that is that child’s collection of curious power talismans. The parent seems unwilling to admit it ever happened, nor replace, nor return it.

Finally, a note on “insulated” probes. a home user can “insulate” their own probes by coating a plain stainless or gold probe with clear nail polish. That is really all the pre-packaged ones are. The only difference is that they are sterilized after the coating has dried. One would need to assure that one did only one probe at a time, and that the probe is not too terribly soiled during the coating process. It should also be noted that pre-packaged insulated probes do also have a habit of shedding the insulation material either during insertion, or as the probe bends and flexes. I would say that for this reason, Insulated Probes are the one set of probes that probably should NOT be used past their expiration date. (To put it another way, after the expiration date, they should be considered regular stainless probes, as the insulation will have either flaked away, or be britle enough to fall off early in the treatment.)

If that child threw that chunk of metal at someone, the mother may need to pay the medical bills. Those chunks are heavy. I have an extra “big hank” electrode that I used with my Gentronics. Would that work? The diameter is about 1.5" to 2". and it is hollow inside.

All that matters is that they are metal and have a banana port. Yes, that would work.

You are correct about the danger of misuse of that item. What was lost is a solid chunk of stainless shaped so that it would fit in most adult hands without detection. Great for use like the mobsters trusty roll of quarters in hand, with the added bonus of rounded edges, so it can be held with the blunt end exposed so that it could be used in a stabbing motion for exra cracking effect.

Hopefully, no harm will come of this loss, or else, I may be visited by CSI Buffalo.

Well, while we’re using my thread to fill James’ stocking this Xmas… :grin:

allow me to ask what this sort of probe is used for? Does the patient hold it in their hand to complete the circuit? And is there anything really special about it, or could one drill a hole (to accept the male banana plug) into a steel cylinder? I ask because I have steel stock, a lathe, and a drill press at my disposal.

So many questions, so little time, and my Bono book ships Monday, so I hope to have it around the 20th or so. Then perhaps I can leave you kind people alone for a while as I read and absorb, then come back and ask more advanced questions.

Ok, so it seems there will be no need for me to buy any insulated probes, as I don’t think I will hit the pro level for at least a few years.

And gold Ballet seems to be the way to go, Vickie recommended I get some 2-5 sizes to cover the bases.

Based on findings here, I think non-disp needles are more economical than disp, since I only have two patients, me & my wife. (Sterelization & no cross-epilating, I promise! I plan to use myself as a guinea pig, to reduce discomfort to her, and less punches to the head for me). Does anyone disagree with buying non-disp, based on our situation? I can see where disp would be better for you who see many people.

So no ana/cata rolling for Dee… what about the other pros? Is it necessary/beneficial, considering my skill level?

Thanks a lot for all of the informative replies,
Dave

Yes, a simple hole drilled into an electrically conductive pole would work, provided it was the right size to accept a banana tip. Of course, professional ones are made of hospital grade stainless.

The Pherisis roller is designed to provide skin support. It can open or close pores, and it can help reduce swelling, and speed healing, by pushing post treatment products deeper into the skin, when used properly.

James, what is the purpose of the SS cylinder to which you refer?

I am checking to see if we carry any 316 stainless stock. If so, I may be able to manufacture one for you, if you give me the dimensions you desire. Not sure if I can get it by Xmas, though…

Still looking for an answer to the above…

It is simply desiged to be a grounding device for the current of the machine. The probe that we insert in the follicle sends current into the body, which then leaves the body via the “inactive pole” and travels back into the machine.

It is made of SS so that it can be sterilized in an autoclave and reused. The one polished hole on the one end allows for the red banana cord to be plugged into that side, and the person holds it in their hand, or has it braced against their skin somehow. (I usually place mine under the person’s neck and forget about it when we are working on the face. That way, they don’t drop it when they fall asleep.)

Three to four inches is the standard size range for the length (most are 3.5 inches or 4 inches long) and they measure about 3 inches around.

As I said, a solid chunk like this could be somewhat useful in a physical confrontation, but only if one was good with one’s hands. Throw it across the room and it becomes deadly.

That’s pretty much what I thought. SO you either use this device, or you have to provide another type of ground (electrode, sticky pad, etc.) for the process to work. I would have thought black for the hand-held part, and red for the needle, but thinking about it now, electricity flows from - to +, so this makes sense.

I was thinking of using tubing instead of solid cylindrical stock, that would make it MUCH lighter & less dangerous. The only problem would be the port for the banana plug. Hmmmm, me is thinking… Perhaps a tube 3" long with a 1" solid plug for the banana connector. Still way lighter, but must be machined such that it won’t come apart under drop-shock and such.

Let me see what we stock, I suspect it is only flat material, but I have an email into my steel guy asking him. Flat wouldn’t be SO bad, except for the connection. I guess an alligator clip in your clinic would be a no-go, eh?

You can buy a stainless steel electrode, large or small, for $20 at T.E.S. They ship overseas and can probably get it to you by Christmas.

You can also try Quicksilver Patches, which stick to the skin and you plug the electrode cords into instead of the stainless steel electrode. T.E.S. has them for $10.50 for 100. Of course, these can’t be used as lethal weapons if thrown :wink:

You need an electrode for doing galvanic and blend, and also for footswitch-less operation in any modality when you have enough experience someday (I didn’t dare try it until I was about 125 hours in.)

You can place the electrode under a thigh, with the person lying down or sitting (which is what I do when working on myself.)

Just do a search on “electrode” at T.E.S., www.texaselectrolysissupply.com and you will find all your electrode options. Or give them a call at 1-800-626-6025 and they will help you out.

Sure, and I know James can afford the $20. But if something can be had for less, why not???

On a good note… I believe we shall have 304 (not 316) grade SS probes by the time I return to Korea. While I cannot lay any claim to the abilities of 304 SS to withstand autoclaving, I suspect it will do fine. James, if you want to PM me an address, I can send you one when I return to Korea. I arrive on the 18th, but due to the holidays, I cannot guarantee delivery to you by Xmas, sorry. I have requested a .75 X 4" probe for both you and I.

I only said “for Xmas” because lots of people from the site DO ask me what I might want for Xmas, Chanukah, Kwanza, Festivus and so on, and my usual reply is any sports jersey with a number 7 on it. (I still haven’t received any David Beckhams and have only have one San Diego Doug Flutie, although I think I have the set on Michael Vick… must have been on sale for some reason :wink: )
Speaking of the alligator clips. I had one of those for the electrode patches (that I still have) but the thing I was sold (remember, we have to buy most supplies sight unseen) was a very cheap clip that was made with PLASTIC and metal, so it was not something one could autoclave, and the simple stress of use broke the plastic and left me with an aligator clip that could not be opened without forcing the jaws open like a circus performer. I would have replaced it with a “roach clip” but then I would have had to find a way to weld or solder on the banana port, and well, I was never the guy who aspired to build a car from scratch. Anyway, if you can produce an alligator clip with a plug in port for a banana clip, I could use that as well.

In my academics, I was top notch. My Shop Teacher (ok, officially the class was called Industrial Arts) will tell you that I handed in one project a year. :blush:

Maybe I should trade hair removal for lessons in stuff like car repair and “Indutrial Arts”.

Would you prefer a male or female banana end on the clip?

The Alligator Clip must have a female end. The red cords have the male ends.

Would this do the trick for you?

http://www.positiveoffset.com/banana-alligator.htm