Laser hair removal settings

Hair Removal Methods Laser hair removal
1

Hi. I’ve finished two of the four consultations I’ve set up, and so far I feel like I’m no closer to figuring out just what settings and machine would be best for me. I’ve read through many posts on this forum, so I hope I’m not asking anything that is redundant - at least I’m trying not to.

About me: I am of mixed descent, part Asian and part western European. I can burn (if I stay out in the sun for several hours, and haven’t had much exposure prior), but I also tan easily and regularly with short amounts of sun exposure. I would estimate that I’m at least a III (asians are typically IV, right?), though one tech thought I might be a II and then changed her mind to III. I worry that if I’m bordering on a IV, then there might be increased risk of pigmentation changes or burns with the two main machines (alexandrite, diode) that I’m considering using. I do seem to be prone to hyperpigmentation from blemishes and cuts, etc. (though no keloids, and I don’t have any other pigmentation problems). I want to treat my underarms. I have dark, coarse (though not excessive) hair there, and the skin there is pale (it probably looks like a type II, but with my ancestry, I doubt I would actually be a II) and hasn’t been exposed to sun in ages. All spot tests have been somewhat painful, though not unbearable. I’ve healed well from all of them, though I think the settings were pretty low. Too soon to tell about shedding (though from what I’ve read, even if it occurs, that is still not a guarantee that the follicle has been disabled).

The clinics I am considering seem comparable in terms of pricing and tech experience, and very much on the conservative side in terms of settings, which is why it would be helpful, at least as a starting point, to have specific settings that I can suggest or ask them about. These are the machine options:

  1. Candela GentleLase (alexandrite) (I know this has a fixed 3ms wavelength)
  2. Lumenis LightSheer (diode) (I would insist on the compression method)
  3. Cynosure Apogee elite (alexandrite & yag)

First, can you please make suggestions as to the minimum joules/spot size/wavelength combination that would still be likely to be effective for each the three machines (or four, since the third can be alexandrite or yag)? In other words, what would be a good conservative, yet still effective setting for my skin/hair type to start out with for a spot test? That way, if my skin cannot tolerate at least that setting, then I would know to go down to a less intense machine (i.e., from the alexandrite to the diode to the yag).

Second, can you please make suggestions as to what the maximum joules/spot size/wavelength combination, such that if the settings were to be increased, complications would be likely? That way, I will have an idea of what settings to be extremely cautious about.

Third, is a topical 4% hydroquinone cream advisable? Would it have any effect in terms of reducing the risk of hyperpigmentation?

Fourth, what about the cooling on the various machines? In a post I read (maybe from the Smooth Solutions guy?), someone mentioned that they would be purchasing the GentleLase w/out cryogen cooling. Is there a problem with that cooling method? Between cryogen, a cool tip, and air, which is the best cooling method?

Fifth, on the Smooth Solutions website, I found a pdf file comparing the various machines, and the diode was mentioned as not being excellent (but the alexandrite and yag were, though for differing skin types of course). From other posts here, though, it sounds like many people are quite positive about the LightSheer. Can I get an explanation about this (maybe from someone from Smooth Solutions?)?

Thanks so much. This site is GREAT.

2

I think you are going about this the wrong way. There is no way to properly teach you what you need to know to decide the kinds of questions you are asking without time and effort on your part. What you are asking for is experience and that is not easy to convey because the answers are not always that clear.

What you should do is to find a location which has been in business for at least 4 preferably 5 years and where you like what they say and how they answer your questions. Then trust their judgement. There are many good locations that have not been in business for at least 4 years but it is often difficult to tell which ones are good and which ones are not. On the other hand, bad operations don’t survive 4 years.

As far as cooling, the cryogen cooling from Candela was used because in the beginning all you had available for an alex was cold gel and the cryogen spray. The Cynosure machines had the ability to vary the pulsewidth so they were usable with cold gel. The Candelas on the other hand were fixed at 3 ms which is a very short pulse that is more risky to the skin and needed a more consistent cooling system than cold gel. With all changed in 2000 with the advent of the Zimmer cooling system. Studies have shown that the cooling of the Zimmer units (down to 0 degrees farenheit) is much better than the cooling of the cyrogen, just because it is on the skin much much longer.

Regarding the lightsheer diode, it is limited by its inability to provide high power in a short pulsewidth. It works good on coarse hair but has a tendency to make hair finer. But as it gets finer, it becomes more difficult to treat. You reach the point where it is almost impossible to remove the remaining hair, yet this is hair that will respond to an alex or YAG which can get a pulsewidth down to 3 ms.