You’re getting colder with the languages. My needles still haven’t arrived so I tested it in salt water but nothing happened, no heat or bubbles, checked the probe (large needle I used) no heat either. Checked the salt water with a multimeter and it is conductive. Do you think it might not work or could I have done something wrong? This unit was sold untested and “as is”. Should I try it with an egg instead?
The salt water will only indicate galvanic … egg white the HF. It is likely you got a dud. “Untested and as is?” To me that indicates a machine that is broken … I mean, testing is simple so why not test before you sell it.
Polski? ha ha ha
Hi inkling,
I’ve steered clear of this discussion, because honestly I dont have experience with this machine, nor am I familiar with where you are located to recommend a machine for you that will work with the power type in your country.i’m not familiar with the symbols
I have to say, that having done DIY electrolysis I can say that it takes some time. It’s inordinately difficult to get an insertion upon yourself. , most especially in the genital region so you can prepare for GRS . Working on my face was an nearly insurmountable task but the positions and time to maintain them to do the same thing for GRS would have crippled me to maintain, perhaps why to this day I’ve never done my own surgery prep. For this reason, I’m going to say the others are correct, and you should not attempt this. Rather, you are going to need someone else to learn how to do electrolysis on you if you are going to attempt DIY at all. It’s really really difficult to do this to yourself.
As for the machine, well I think you are on the right track. The pedal will plug usually in the back, but maybe not on that one. Dont plug your probeholder into anything with a red ( posative) that one is for your posative lead . Your negative( cathode) is usually a plug on the front as is your anode. I cant make heads or tails of your controls, except they seem to have one graduated knob for galvanic ( electrolysis) and a second for thermolysis ( intensity) and a unified timer for both. The top hole ( red in the image of the pdf) is your posative ground and the bottom would be for your probeholder.
Learn how to do both a bubble test and egg white test and the machine must pass both of those . You can also test the thermolysis with a probe stuck into some room temperature meat but both of these tests will require a few probes for testing with. You cannot tell anything without these.
I recommend you go to the channel for Josefa Reina on youtube and search there for bubble test and egg white test ( though maybe that one is on Electrology now? Mike could tell us) . You failure on the bubble test may be down to not putting the posative lead in the glass of salt water? Or it could be down to a short in one of your cables ( either the ground or probeholder wire) . Short of replacing them and trying again ( and I’ve no idea where you’d get one if it’s made in Romania) you may not be able to use this old ( and likely broken ) machine, sorry. Either way, unless you are the worlds best contortionist ( and even then maybe not) you’re going to need another person to actually perform the electrolysis down there.
To perform a bubble test you need to turn the galvanic up all the way, have salt water in a glass prepared, put your annode in the glass then run the needle through the water while depressing the pedal ( also have the timing set all the way up ) . You should see a stream of tiny bubbles appearing from the probe if it is successfully giving DC current.
To do an egg white place an egg white in a bowl in some second bowl with tepid/slightly warm water to bring up to rrom temperature . Turn your thermolysis on high and timing on high. Put the probe in the room temp egg white and press and hold the pedal for designated period of time. If the egg white “cooks” to the end of the probe, thermolysis is working. Now turn it all down to zero and start agan with a few meat tests ( same thing, room temperature) . Learn what kind of damage the machine is capable of inflicting on tissue.
If it’s working to that point, only then should you consider trying on a human, and then under the careful guidance in Michaels book on finding the “working point” . I recommend doing strictly galvanic for quite some time, until you are comfortable with insertions.
One last thing, my exposure to the Romanian people ( and their companies) is limited to partner of many years from there, and also their reputation in the european community, they are a very gypsy based ethnic background, and sometimes their “companies” are of dubious value. It wouldnt surprise me then, to find out that this machine may not only not work, but may never have.
Seana
All good suggestions. I did a lot of DIY too … I must have been nuts. (Tiny correction: “positive” is not spelled “posative.” … It’s the old schoolmarm in me.)
To quote a line from “Lord of war” 
“I like it my way better”
Some historical facts about the Romani people: lots of prejudice, lots of suffering including the Nazi death camps.
Romani people, traditionally called “Gypsies,” though this term is considered a [racial] slur, constitute one of Romania’s largest minorities. According to the 2011 census their number was 621,573 people or 3.3% of the total population, being the second largest ethnic minority in Romania after Hungarians.
My thoughts as an inexperienced DIYer: This does look like a blend machine. I would expect the intensity dial to be RF intensity (power). The silver electrode looks to have an RCA plug while the sockets on the machine are banana, so it’s maybe from a different machine. You could change the plug or buy an adapter if you wanted to use it instead of the pad.
Looking at the newer model, and contrary to what the other replies have said, the probe/cathode (“active electrode”) obviously connects to the red socket, and the anode (“inactive electrode”) connects to the black socket. I would assume it may also be this way around on your model. It doesn’t make a lot of sense from an electrical perspective, but I guess it would make more sense to the average layperson. You could verify which direction it should be plugged in by testing the sockets with a multimeter while the machine is set to galvanic only mode (intensity at min). The top socket has an AC symbol while the bottom has a DC symbol. I’m not too sure of the significance of these, maybe it’s that the probe is used for AC (as well as DC), while the anode is only used for the DC galvanic portion (the RF may work with a different ground plane). The AC symbol may also mean “AC or DC” since it includes a straight line.
The new model says it’s operating frequency (for thermolysis presumably) is 0.5MHz (500kHz) which is very low compared to most other modern machines.