Fischer SE-4 vs. Kree 1001 Model 700?

Hair Removal Methods Do-It-Yourself Electrolysis
#1

Hello! I’ve been lurking these forums for quite a while, and have found them to be very informative and so helpful - thanks!

I’m looking to purchase an inexpensive epilator machine - my area of concern is lower legs. I have very pale skin and coarse, dark (though not dense) hair. About a year go, I had about 15 hours of electrolysis done by a professional without any noticable results. I’ve never tried DIY except on a One-Touch type machine with no success.

After spending time on Google and these forums, I narrowed it down to A Fischer SE-4, Kree 1001 Model 700 (each under $500 ). I also saw a Precision Uni-Probe Auto-Blend on Texas Electrolysis supply for $899.

Any recommendations on which machine to purchase?

I’m leaning towards the Fischer because I’ve seen it favorably mentioned several times here. There isn’t much information readily available on these machines to make me feel comfortable that I’m making a very informed choice.

I understand I’ll want to send the older machines to Texas Electrolysis supply for refurbishment? I plan to email them after I’ve made my decision.

I know that skill and patience is a huge factor in determining results. I am not too concerned about having a super-fast machine because I don’t plan on using it for many large areas, and am very willing to trade my time to accomplish this goal.

#2

Given those machines as choices, my first choice would be the Fischer SE-4, second choice Precision Uni-Probe Auto-Blend, and lastly Kree 1001 Model 700.

#3

That helps a lot, thank you!!

#4

If you’re willing to spend $900-1000 you can probably find an older apilus machine like a 1st generation senior, I think it would be a much better purchase than any of the machines you listed.

#5

Thanks for your response t4ngent!! Any particular reason if it’s mostly lower legs I’m worried about? I’ve read the apilus are good machines. I want to spend as little as possible, but totally would spend more if it meant better results.

#6

Because the Apilus has pre-set programs for body parts, the learning curve to doing acceptable work is a quicker journey with a little more of a margin of safety in the early going. Your poor insertion quality will be more of a problem than your poor skill at selecting the correct currents.

#7

I just got off the phone with Texas Electrolysis Supply, and they made a very good case for purchasing a Uniprobe Lite in favor of the Fischer.

I know you’ve recommended against thermolysis-only to start, but they said I should have success with the Uniprobe for my purposes, and am better off buying this new model rather than an older machine of unknown origin and condition.

#8

They make a good point. I was thinking back. When I was NOT an electrologist, I tried to purchase the same epilator from Prestige and they would not sell it to me without proof that I was an electrologist (license number and school where I was trained).

#9

Well, that seems to put it more in perspective, thank you!

#10

Of course they try to make a good case for you buying a new machine which they sell… as opposed to a used one which you will get from somewhere else.

Here’s another thing to consider: electrolysis machines have very long lifespans, from an electronics standpoint they are very simple devices and easy to repair/fix… The better ones retain their resale value very well over time, hence why a first generation apilus senior from the early 90’s is still worth around $1000. So as long as you get a decent price on a higher end machine, you are likely to be able to sell it for around the same amount later on…

I see no reason to start with galvanic or blend, especially if you are only working on the legs, just be careful and do your research up front. Once you get going I think you would regret getting a machine that can only do slow thermolysis and not flash… I know I would, anyways.

Also highly recommend to use insulated probes, size .003 and .002 are most common for legwork.

#11

The suggestion for a galvanic start, followed by moving up to blend, and finally graduating to thermolysis is designed to allow you to fumble through to proficiency without living with the scars of your mistakes for a lifetime. Ignore this advice if you want to, but you may find yourself wishing that you had followed that advice later, when you have cut a slash in your leg, or you have a white spot the size of a dime on your leg that doesn’t grow hair, or have pigment (or is darker than surrounding skin.

#12

Just pulled this quote up from the forum archives, and am thinking it might apply to me even with the Hinkel?

“Hold out for a good machine. These people that buy the older Instantrons for $500, or the older Clareblends or Fischers or Hinkels are settling for less. It really is worth it to buy a good computerized machine. But like you said, that’s what your looking for. Good luck.”

#13

It also seems that the UC-2 has been sold for as low as $200