Could I have the Silouette Tone SB2 guide for

Hair Removal Methods Do-It-Yourself Electrolysis
1

Absolute morons please?

Ok so my biggest hangup for a couple weeks now has been waiting on probes and getting them ordered. They are still a couple weeks out. In the meantime I’ve been busy gathering what I thought I needed , loop, tweezers etc . Today I managed to score a whole batch of probes, in 3 different sizes , from a retired electrologist.Queue several hours of unpowered insertion attempts.

I’m working on my left upper thigh . I have to admit that my pain tolerance is pretty high. In some ways I’m having a little difficulty guaging the depth of insertions, but using the trick of plucking one hair in the area to get a general guide to how far I should be inserting.

So it’s getting late in the night, and I’m thinking I’m doing ok. I’m managing to match the insertion depth to what I think it should be. But it doesnt matter if I insert he probe right to the holder I’m generally not feeling much in the way of sensation if I am hitting or piercing the bottom of the follicle. Occasionally I do see the skin indent a tiny bit if I do insert far enough, and am reasoning it’s probably due to the probe hitting the bottom of the folicle.

So late in the evening I decide I want to try with some current applied. I’m being exceptionally cautious, as I’m feeling out the machine and myself.I set the dial on the galvanic side to it’s absolue lowest setting, according to the digital readout 0.1 .Thermolysis is dialed right to zero. I take my time and get a good insertion.

Now I mentioned before , I bought this machine used , and it came with no manual. I looked a the connections. It has one connector in the back that doesnt have a pedal plugged into it, but on closer examination the annode is too large to fit there. Back to the front of the machine, there are ttwo possible plugs for the annode, one marked posative and the other negative. That, and the probe holder connector. I plug the anode into the posative, because from my understanding the probe itself is the negative in the circuit. Am I wrong in this?

One trick I’ve learned from having work done t the school, is they usually wrap the annode in wet paper towel to improve conductivity. I do the same.Later after several attempts I remove the paper towel.

I try after getting what i think is a good insertion to hit the pedal. I’m just not feeling anything. I know my tolerance is high and I dont always feel the current, so I let it go for a full 2 minute count. Nothing. I cant feel anything, there’s no evidence of lye, and upon plucking, it definitely feels like a plucked hair not an electrolysed one.

So I look at the probe holder, one of 3 that came with the machineI notice around the end where the wire is the rubber there has broken down with age, and I start to question it. Queue probe holder number 2 and probe number 2. Oops bent the probe assembling the holder, queue probe number three.

I try again, but I’m still not feeling anything, no evidence of electrical current. I check I havent got the machine off, but it’s on.About this time I’m noticing something on the machine. While the readout says 0.1 as soon as I hit the pedal this changes to 0.0 . I’m thinking this is the machine’s way of telling me everything isnt right.I check the connections, theyall seem ok to my eye,but still as soon as I hit the pedal it drops from 0.1 to 0.0 .
Ok I’m still thinking I have the connections right, so I decide to throw caution to the wind, reasoning I’m using just the galvanic side of the machine, and I can stop if I need to, turn the dial up to 0.3. Same thing happens as before,no evidence of lye, no sensation other than the probe itself, and the reading drops from 0.3 to 0.0.

I still have one remaining probe holder left, the one I havebeen avoiding because of the masking tape near where the wire goes in, in the exact spot the other probe holder seems to have degenerated. I didnt think this was a good sign so I’ve avoided it.

I’m really wondering if I have bad probe holders, or if my setup is wrong? Should I be ordering out a replacement new probe holder? Should the annode be plugged into the negative outlet for the annode and not the posative? Or am I being TOO cautious with the current and should be turning it up? If someone familiar with the SB2 operations could comment, it would be appreciated.

Seana

2

Good luck finding guides out there for this machine. I think it’s an early 90s model and I doubt it’s still supported. Anyway, I have the same machine and I get great results from it. You won’t do any damage either you reach setting 8 or higher or leave the needle in for longer then it’s supposed to. Galvanic is slow work, I only use it for hairs that crop up on a clear area.

The SB 2 has a digital readout display that doesn’t measure the galvanic or thermoslysis output like a needle based readout on other 80s and 90s epilators would give you. This means that if it drops down to 0, you have a problem…

Now onto the features of the SB 2. It’s got two female adapters in the back for foot pedals, one controls the galvanic and the other controls thermolysis. I believe it’s the right side that will do thermolysis and the left does galvanic. I use the auto insertion setting for galvanic if I’m doing galvanic or blend work, otherwise I use the foot pedal for thermolysis. If you need pictures or anything I could take some

Also, I have 2 extra probe holders that go with the machine that I’m willing to let go of for cheaper then you’d find on the Internet, if you want to make a deal you can PM me

Edit: The positive (+) jack is where you will want to plug the red wire with the galvanic rod attached and a wet sponge around the bare metal rod to properly use galvanic.

3

Which is how I have it set up. It’s definitely dropping to zero when I press the pedal. I’ll try the third probe holder, and see if that makes a difference. If so, I’ll look at picking up a spare or two.

I’m more than a little grumbly, because I had high hopes. I’ll try a higher setting as well, but was necessarily hoping to "give it a shot or two " today but it looks like I have more experimentation to do.I had planned on testing with a voltmeter, but realized it didnt make it to my new home when I moved this spring for whatever reason. thank you for your help, I kneew you had a SB2 and was hopeful you would reply.

Seana

4

Also, the ‘light bulb test’ and ‘egg cooking’ test come to mind to test out your epilator. Anyway, if its dropping to 0 it would imply there’s a short circuit somewhere on that board and I’d stop using it immediately. I know you don’t want to hear this but it’s the safer option.

If you want some background as to why it’s probably not safe, the board is dedicated to read out only the desired output, not measure the applied current. If its dropping to 0 it’s sending the desired output and not receiving an accepatable reading back so its shorting somewhere in the process. If you have any luck let me know. But here again to really verify it works I’d try the tests I talked about earlier.

Edit: also it seems there’s not much ‘digital’ logic to this machine, as in there’s no on board chip that contains instructions for telling the machine to actually drop to a ambiguous number, (such as zero). Thats whats really puzzling me.

5

If you are doing a light bulb test, what kind of bulb is used? something like a little LED or fashlight bulb?

6

To put it in perspective… an Apilus and the Silhouet Tone VMC that was another topic previously on this board contains an ‘on-board’ chip with a kernel (think of a very MINI operating system like Windows or DOS) that contains instructions for the machine to operate and will verify each electrical output, it’s also capable of running several operator defined settings which in computer code translates to a couple of data structures and a well written code base. The SB 2 contains quite simply, none of this, just a digital reading and electrical current verification and output.

7

Any bulb will do, i think. The Galvanic current will light up any normal light bulb while thermolysis will make an egg white. I’ve never done it nor do i have a lot of the knowledge behind it. A lot of the beginning electrolysis books talk about this to gauge how much current is actually being delivered.

8

I have a few small flashlights around, I’m going to test and see if any current is going between the annode and probe holder. I’ll post back when I know more. Laval isnt that far away so I COULD have it serviced, but it may be more worthwhile to get another, which given I’m exceptioonally broke now, havign spend a few hundred on other related stuff wont make me happy.

Seana

9

Epilators are a dime a dozen. I got my SB 2 for 100$ on eBay 2-3 years ago and it’s definitely my go-to machine… trumping a Gentronics machine is hard work but this machine does equivalent work.

Just be smart about what you purchase.

10

The plot thickens…

So I try the lightbulb test with the foot switch, no dice. Same as before, even when turned up to about 1.2. I try the sensor , and same thing, the instant the light bulb touches the annode the output drops to 0.0 and I’m getting no current to the bulb.

Okay, well in a prior life I was a computer tech,understand electronics pretty well,have a screwdriver and am not afraid to use it. I open the case.

Inside things look pretty well laid out. I have the advantage of having a magnifying light . I’m not spotting anything like a leaking capacitor or similar. What I DO spot is the board at the front of the machine, on standoffs behind the dials. It has two standoffs that are supposed to hold it off the control panel at one end, the other end is a pin connector with about 30 pins. It’s not screwed in! Not only that, it appears to lifted slightly such that it probably isnt making good contact on all the pins.

So Now I’m hunting around for a couple screws to fit, and to figure out where in this mess I’ve put the light bulb I was using. I’m betting that when it shipped via mail from quebec, it was enough jostling to loosen the connector. One I have tested further, I’ll repost.

Seana

11

If the bulb used is not something small like a flashlight bulb, you may not get enough energy going through the bulb long enough to see any light.

The first time I tried the bulb test on my platinum, I was dismayed to find that the bulb did not light, but found that it was just the fact that the setting I was normally using was so quick and light that it could not register visible light in such a ten thousandth of a second bust of energy. When I turned the machine up to a setting that I have only ever used once an any living thing, I got to see the light bulb light.

I got a new appreciation of why my clients say the machine is more comfortable than my previous machines that day.

12

No dice. After screwing in the two standoffs for theboard, pushing the pin connector in firmly, I’m getting exactly the same symptoms. I pushed in some of the other connectors as well, at least one attached to a rainbow colored ribbon cable seemed a little bit loose, but made no difference, as soon as the sensor detects completion of the current or the pedal is pushed, the output drops to zero.

I’m pretty heartbroken right now. I live on next to nothing, and have overextended myself buying the things I needed. I want to just cry. I’ll try emailing the vendor in quebec, but as they speak only french and I only english, it’s going to be difficult.

Seana

13

James, I had the machine set at 0.5 .It’s an analogue machine, so in theory should go as long as I press the pedal, but come to think of it I DO have the timer set to zero. I’ll try cranking up the timer, and the voltage, to see if tht makes a difference.For the moment I have it put back together.

Seana

14

No difference. I set the intesity to 2.0, and the timer to 14 . Exactly the same symptoms as before, as soon as the light bulb touches the annode to complete the circuit, the output display drops to zero.

Time to have my friend in montreal translate an email for me, and email the vendor.

Seana

15

Oh, and I was using 3v flashlight bulb, normally powered by 2 AA’s. I tested it just before and it does work.

16

I’m really hoping the vendor will refund at least the purchase price, though probably not the shipping.That will give me me at least $150 towards a new machine.

Inlooking around I did locate a servo-blend sb8 , again in quebec, for $320. I’m a little leary of trying to communicate in french again, my french really isnt good.Either way, this setback is likely to set me back for months. I cant afford to put alot more money into this at the moment, and the school I was having professional work done at wont have anyone available for at least 2 months.

Seana

17

First, turn both knobs all the way up to maximum and test again.

Honestly, even if there is some problem with the machine, it would only cost you about $70 and one week to send it to Texas Electrolysis and have them give it the once over.

18

I’ll do the test as you suggest. The thing is, it’s likely to cost me more than $70 in shipping alone to send it to them for service. I’m in ottawa canada and there is customs to deal with back and forth too.

After opening the box, a couple things are clear. This machine has been opened before. The panel I was talking about had no screws holding it in, and at least one of the plastic board standoffs is missing. Someone has played inside before, and they didnt seem to know wht they were doing.

It might be cheaper to bring it to Laval to silouette tones depot there. I could get a greyhound bus up on one of the weeks my autistic son is with his other parent. The issue with this is it will still be at least until the 20th until I will have the money to do that, and that’s the start of one of my "On " weeks with my son. So I’m looking at least 3 weeks from now before that is even a possibility.It’s a $38 greyhound to montreal and that’s before I look at any repair costs.

If I did go to silouette tone’s depot, it’s likely they wouldnt deal with me, as I dont have a certificate and am a DIY er.

For the moment I’ve emailed the vendor. I located a silouette tone SB8 machine in montreal for $320. It’s a better machine than the SB2 I think, if maybe of similr vintage. If the vendor will refund at least the $150 purchase price for this machine (aside from the $50 I paid to have it shipped) then I can look at just popping up to montreal for the day and buying that outright on the 20th.In the meantime I’ll have a little closer look inside and see if I can eliminate the difficulty myself, since I’m descent with electronics or possibly get a refund from the vendor.

Despite what IlikeDIY said, there are several IC’s present. What part they play in the logic of the machine I dont know.Its possible the transformer is weak, or somehere a connector is loosened. I dont have a voltmeter, so I’m limited to what I can do to diagnose myself.

Seana

19

Since you don’t have your location listed in your profile, I did not realize you were in Canada. You are right that you are best off having the thing taken to a S-T place in Canada. You are closer to their mother ship than Texas Electrolysis Supply.

20

I dont know if it’s worth it to even do that.

I’ve taken it apart again since, and discovered at least one problem.

The way this is set up, there is a electronics panel accross the entire front. This has the pots and display running off of it.There’s a daughter board that plugs into this, andit is largely composed of IC’s and a few resistors.and connects to the main front board with a rainbow ribbon cable, and the aforementioned 30 or so pin connector it plugs directly in with.There is also a rainbow colored ribbon cable running from the daughter board to the main board mounted on the bottom of the unit.

In between these two boards at the front, are two wires, one red, and one black .The red goes to the postive connector for the galvanic side, the black to the negative connector for galvonic ( not the probe) . It appears the black wire is abraided slightly, and there is visible slight scorching. It looks like it is long enough it has abraided on the rough back side of th daughter board with it’s solder pins.
I dont know if the daughter board is original, as mentioned earlier it didnt seem attached as it should be, and it’s a different color ( green as opposed to tan) from all the other boards in the machine.

As the negative lead isnt currently in use, rather than replacing it and soldering on a new one, I insulated it with tape and tucked it where it could do no harm as I wanted to see if this was the cause of my issue grounding out the daughter board. It wasnt, further testing showed the same results as before.

So this problem has existed for some time. The damage on the wire is old, not new. It may have damaged one of the IC’s on the daughter board. There are also two empty IC slots on the board but I think they are not in use, though it does lead the possibility there are even IC’s missing in addition to the damage caused at some point.

I’ve gone over the machine with a fine tooth comb, and cannot locate any other cause of issues. So likely an IC on the board is internally damaged by being grounded out at some point. This is beyond what I think I can do with simple tools and limited knowlege, and I’m questioning whether even silouette tone can fix the machine.The connectors are all plugged in firmly, and even the IC’s have been checked they are plugged in well.

I think it’s dead Jim. I am hoping for a refund.