What is the definition of digital? Is a machine, with a digital display, digital? Do you need to have a keypad instead of knobs? It’s easy to build a non-digital machine and stick a digital display on it. There are also digital potentiometers (rheostats) that can make a digital machine look analog. Some might argue that a true digital machine would need to have a microprocessor to control the operation.
Here’s something to think about; the acid test I would say. When the word “microprocessor” is used — at least in my mind — it conjures up the notion that you could take 2 machines from the same manufacturer that have microprocessor controls in them. Have one at your office at location "A” and another at an office at location "B.” Set the settings for time and intensity on them identically. You would expect the exact same output from each machine, wouldn’t you? This would be an easy feat for the galvanic, but not for the thermolysis.
I seriously doubt if any manufacturer has a machine that will replicate that well. It would be expensive to design and there is actually no reason to do it anyhow. A needle in a hair follicle is neither put in the exact depth from follicle to follicle, nor is the moisture content identical in each follicle. That is why “reading the skin and ease of epilation” is so important; the ONLY thing that actually matters!
My take on this pesky subject is that as long as the machine puts out the same intensity at a given setting each time the footswitch is pressed (or not if in auto-sense mode) then the machine is doing the job.
It is the age of the technology. But the technology will never achieve that the top of a needle is deposited in the exact place of the brain of the follicle without the help of a hand directed by a human brain.
The advances have improved very much the things and when in the area, the size of the hairs is similar, you can programme the machine in order that it does the same work in every follicle. If the phase of the hair is the problem, you can insert to major or minor depth. If the size of the hair is the problem, you can touch two times the footswitch. If the time is the problem, you can raise the footswitch before it finishes the programmed time.
If the water is the problem, it will be all the same, neither galvanic nor high frequency will work. It is the moment to run towards the window.
I have tried to use the autosensor, but I do not like, this does I am slower. And put stress on me!
I love the autosensor. Sometimes the delay time needs to be lengthened (or shortened) to fit the skin. I can get into a real nice rhythm with it.
I’m curious whether or not you alternate feet when using the footswitch? A few years ago, a local colleague showed us the difference in the size of her right calf from her left calf. Her right calf was much more muscular (larger!) than her left!
Regarding the different kinds of hair in an area (female chins, for example) there are several options. One is to adjust settings for super-coarse hair and clear those out, then go back over the area with a setting for less-coarse hair. Another is to do multiple insertions on the coarse hairs and not on the less-coarse hair. (No need to test those hairs - you know which ones they are!)
Hijacking thread to talk about pulsing: It’s almost been a year since I started using my Platinum, and one of the things that I’m discovering is that when using pulse, the length of time between pulses can make a significant difference on the release of hairs. I never would have believed that one!!!
Yes, when I did “flash” years ago, I discovered that “resting time” between pulses (I called it “recovery time”) affected the hair’s release. Perhaps the tissue takes a half-second or more to become fully denatured from the heat. That would make sense since organic material is not “cooked” instantly. Indeed, time is an important element of the electrolysis equation (often overlooked).
I also discovered that with the blend, or any other modality that uses thermolysis, the diameter of the needle is the most important thing! I think especially with “flash,” using the correct needle is critical. (Maybe with galvanic — multiple needle — it’s not so important.) We don’t usually talk about it, but the needle manufacturers (e.g., Ballet) are responsible for uplifting our profession. The old hand-made needles were, (you don’t what to know!)
Yes! That is why it gets a little redundant here because when we talk about finding a skilled electrologist, we always mention a good vision set up. With quality magnification, we are able to see if there is a hint of the skin getting angry so we can make adjustments asap.
I don’t have my footswitch plugged in. Working in auto sensor mode is not only good for preventing that big calf normal calf difference,perhaps , but it really helps with the fatigue factor if one is working over an hour on individual cases like I frequently do. For those tiny delicate hairs under the nose, it helps me with precision if I am not moving and tapping on a footswitch. I actually hold my breath for this area, so I can be as still as possible. My timer is usually set at .07, but for challenging areas, it can be as high as 1 second. It took me a little while to get use to auto sensor, so until I became really comfortable with this feature, my timer was usually set at 1.5 seconds.
As we share our preferences, the viewers quickly get the idea that we all have different approaches with fine tuning our art and skill factors. There are very few absolutes in this business on how to remove hair, but the real deal comes when the client realizes that something good is happening - less shaving needed, hairs are popping in here and there, texture of the hair is finer.
well just for fun, I’ll add my two cents. Really two topics: “digital” and autosense. As for digital, an epilator is really an analog power device. the DC is an analog source and so is the RF. An accurate claim would be to say a device has “digital control.” Also devices can have “digital display”. I actually prefer the analog meters for this sort of thing. Digital displays don’t handle changing signals very well. As for control, its simpler to create complicated on/off pulsing patterns with a microprocessor. Whether the complicated pulsing is more effective or more comfortable is still an open topic for discussion.
Autosense: Of course I am just an amateur playing at home, but I have a Fischer CB2 that has only autosense and a Clareblend Mini that has only foot-switch. I have some issues with the autosense. If you have any trouble doing the insertion, the power can start before you really want it to. You can set a longer start delay but then sometimes you are sitting around waiting for it to start. Also, the autosense requires a sensing current which I can feel on sensitive areas. This makes insertions uncomfortable. Maybe newer machines have a lower sensing current so its less of an issue but I can definitely feel the sense current on my CB2. The other issue with autosense is that you can’t stop in the middle of the treatment very easily. I have found that some follicle are much more sensitive than others. If a particular follicle starts to get too painful, the only way to stop it on my CB2 is to pull the needle out or reach over and hit a stop button (not practical or quick in the heat of the moment.) Using the foot-switch has some ergonomic and comfort issues (my leg falls asleep, etc.) but overall it gives you much more control. I have adapted a thumb switch push-button (instead of the foot switch) so my wife can do insertions on me but I control the power. If it gets too painful, I just stop the power by letting go of the push button.
Amateur’s should really being using a footswitch for the reasons you mentioned. Busy professional electrologists who choose
autosensor mode, have it down and are not plague with other issues related to insertions and such. Some may switch back and forth and start a client area using the footswitch and then enable the autosensor once they understand the levels and challenge of the area.
I control the power as well using autosensor mode, but I won’t get into the detail about how I do it. Feel your way through and do things that are comfortable for you.
Rhodesenger, by the way, is 100% correct in all he said (I think). I also prefer an analog display. I have a car with a digital display and I HATE it — I don’t like digital watches either.
I find it interesting that all the high-end cars today have analog displays. Of course they are “loaded” with all kinds of “computer controls” (microprocessors), but the analog display seems to have won out. (You know Mercedes, BMW, etc.) I don’t think anyone would call a new BMW M5 “old fashioned.” I have a friend with one of these rockets, and I won’t even get in the thing again, after one drive — WAY too fast!
, but it really helps with the fatigue factor if one is working over an hour on individual cases like I frequently do. For those tiny delicate hairs under the nose, it helps me with precision if I am not moving and tapping on a footswitch. I actually hold my breath for this area, so I can be as still as possible. My timer is usually set at .07, but for challenging areas, it can be as high as 1 second. It took me a little while to get use to auto sensor, so until I became really comfortable with this feature, my timer was usually set at 1.5 seconds.